67 Pall Mall played host yesterday evening to the Circle of Wine Writers’ Festive Party, an event sponsored by The Old Vine Conference, and chaired by Sarah Abbott MW. The evening was attended by wine writers, broadcasters, and viticulturists, who make up the CWW membership, along with those who presumably just appreciate a beautifully gnarled old vine trunk.
As to be expected, some highly interesting wines were poured, kicking off with a Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore, with grapes coming from vines of between 80 and 100 years old. Other fine examples followed from the Veneto, California and Rioja.
Each wine demonstrated how the meticulous winemaking practices that go hand-in-hand with old vine conservation produce complexity and concentration of fruit in the finished product. Reds from the Napa and Sonoma Valleys were hitting 15.5 and even 16 per cent abv, signalling it was time for some food. But first, Charles Metcalf MW (‘King Charles’) entertained us with his festive party trick by singing a vinous Christmas carol written for the occasion. By the end of the evening, all of us – kings, queens and commoners – were singing. A very festive occasion indeed.