This is my seventh year interviewing winemakers or winery principals in Ontario about their latest grape harvest and wine production. Now that it is early December and the wines are all in tanks or barrels, how did the Ontario grape growing season and harvest fare? I interviewed three winemakers/winery principals this year:
- Chris Thompson, Winemaker at Lighthall Vineyards in Prince Edward County
- Jesse Horvath, Winemaker at Viewpointe Estate Winery in Lake Erie North Shore
- Rebecca Ruggeri, Winemaker at Lailey Wines in Niagara-on-the-Lake
Where Are These Wineries?
Here is a Google map showing the location of the wineries, colour-coded to the winemaker names above.
My Interview with the Ontario Winemakers
Thank you to these winemakers for taking the time to answer my interview questions and let my readers find out more about their wineries and the progress of their 2024 grape harvest.
1. Where are your vineyards and winery are located?
Chris: Prince Edward County, about 15 min south of Picton. We’re actually the southernmost vineyard & winery in PEC.
Jesse: The closest hamlet is Colchester, belonging to the town of Essex in the County of Essex. We have three vineyard locations in close proximity to each other, that offer slight micro-climate changes which can be tasted in the wines produced from each vineyard. The winery building itself sits on a bluff overlooking Lake Erie.
Rebecca: Lailey Winery is located in the heart of Niagara-on-the-Lake, with 23 acres of vineyards on our estate property and an additional 12 acres at our Stonebridge Vineyard, situated in the Four Mile Creek sub-appellation. Stonebridge Vineyard produces its own distinct line of wines, reflecting the unique terroir of the site, while complementing the wines from our estate vineyard.
2. When did you start harvesting grapes and when did you finish picking? How do you determine the perfect time to pick your grapes?
Chris: This year we began picking on September 18th, which is around about the typical timeline. We finished a bit on the early side by October 11th. Determining picking times is a bit different depending on the variety/style. Since we are a northern region a bit on the edge of things, we typically have slightly lower sugar levels and I often pick more based on acidity and flavour, and then make sure the sugar is in a good place as well.
Jesse: Our first pick of 2024 came on September 10th (Pinot Gris) and last was November 6th (Cabernet Sauvignon). (We have harvested as late as November 16th, 2021.) Our winemaker is very diligent in checking and tasting the grapes regularly leading up to harvest, then daily until he is satisfied that the chemistry and flavour profile is maximized. Weather also plays a factor; if there is large amounts of rain forecasted this can necessitate harvesting before the rain.
Rebecca: The 2024 harvest began on September 13 with our estate-grown Sauvignon Blanc, which was planted last year, and concluded on November 1 with our Stonebridge Cabernet Sauvignon. Harvest decisions are always carefully timed, balancing sugar levels with phenolic ripeness to ensure optimal fruit development. This approach allows for the full concentration of flavours, creating a rich, complex profile in the finished wines.
3. What surprised you about this year’s harvest? Did you have a bigger or smaller volume of grapes compared to last year?
Chris: This year was much smaller than last year. Largely due to having a large crop last year and a lot of struggle with disease pressure from the amount and intensity of rains we had early in the summertime. Luckily this year we didn’t find too many surprises. We were a bit lighter on fruit than we had expected but that was about it.
Jesse: The weather remained dry throughout harvest, allowing for the grapes to hang and continue to develop. With the relatively dry growing season, the crop was smaller in volume than typical. This will hopefully result in excellent quality.
Rebecca: The 2024 growing season was outstanding for the region, marked by a long, warm fall that provided ideal conditions for achieving optimal ripeness. This year, we saw a notable increase in yields for both our Stonebridge Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon blocks, a stark contrast to last year’s more challenging harvest, which was impacted by spring frosts and resulted in lower-than-expected yields. Additionally, the new plantings in our estate vineyard exceeded expectations, with strong, high-quality growth that was a pleasant surprise.
4. Is there a grape or style of wine you are producing this year that you are very excited about?
Chris: This is the first year in many where we have done a fortified wine, this year with unfermented Chardonnay juice, which is being aged in acacia. We used to make one with late-harvest Vidal, so it’s a bit different then the old version, but it was fun to have something different in the mix this year.
Jesse: Our reds came in with very high Brix, but maintaining good acidity, so they bode well for full-bodied red wines with great ageing potential. Our favourite is Cabernet Franc, for its diverse applications (rosé, unoaked and fruit-forward, oak-aged and complex).
Rebecca: Our Stonebridge vineyard features a small block of Viognier, a relatively rare varietal in Niagara-on-the-Lake. Viognier offers a unique opportunity to work with a lesser-known grape that thrives in our diverse microclimates making it an exciting challenge that allows us to showcase the versatility of the region. It develops a rich, aromatic profile with ripe fruit character that sets it apart, creating more distinctive wines.
5. Have you noticed any shifts in your vineyard management practices this year?
Chris: Not really, we’ve kept things steady. This year demanded a lot of care in the spring and early summer as we had a lot of rain and an early start. The canopy exploded so quickly and we had to be very on top of the spray program and canopy management, which provided some challenges. We’ve tried to put more focus on soil health and fertilization but that’s about the only minor change.
Jesse: We did experiment with pruning to produce less yield this year, coupled with the dry conditions should produce some very good quality wines. Brix levels at harvest were very good, along with pH and acid levels in the proper range.
Rebecca: On both our Estate and Stonebridge vineyards, we take a minimal intervention approach to viticulture, allowing the natural character of the land and the fruit to shine through. In the vineyard, this means limiting the use of synthetic chemicals, relying on natural pest control methods, and encouraging vine growth through careful canopy management. We aim to let the vines express themselves in the most authentic way possible, guided by the unique terroir of each site.
6. Are you experimenting with anything new with this harvest, like making a sparkling wine, using amphora or skin-fermented white wines?
Chris: Just the fortified wine I mentioned before, but that is not brand new to us, but not something we’ve done for close to 10 years so it feels a bit new again. Last year I trialled some barrel-fermented Chardonnay in an acacia puncheon, that’s getting tasted for blending and bottling, so that’s been interesting to work with a close-to-finished product on further down the line.
Jesse: Our winemaker has decided to try playing with some small batch saignée-style rosés, Syrah and Cabernet Franc. This is where some juice is “bled” off the red wine right at the start (or prior to) fermentation. Excited to try these ones.
Rebecca: This is my first harvest at Lailey, and I’m excited to be working with wild fermentation for the first time. While it’s an established practice here with both our Lailey and Stonebridge wines, it’s been a rewarding experience seeing how native yeasts highlight the true character of the fruit. Our focus this year is on refining and enhancing our established winemaking practices to ensure that each wine authentically reflects the distinctive qualities of our vineyards while allowing the wines to evolve in the cellar as naturally as possible with minimal interference.
7. Are there any vineyard or cellar innovations you are particularly excited about implementing?
Chris: Nothing major at the moment, but there are always little tweaks and innovations to be added and done to processes here and there. What excites me more is probably the act of discovering the innovations we have yet to implement for the year ahead.
Jesse: We have for years been re-using oak barrels for aging by opening up the barrels and inserting fresh oak staves to hang in the space through a process we call re-staving. This allows us to barrel-age most of our red wines but keeps costs low so we can maintain a reasonable retail price point. Recently, our winemaker has learned the method and taught several of our vineyard workers as well.
Rebecca: In the winery, we’re expanding our barrel program, experimenting with different types of oak and aging techniques to enhance the complexity and depth of our wines, while still allowing the true character of the fruit to shine through. In the vineyard, we’re focusing on our low-intervention farming practices, experimenting with cover crops and soil management to support the health of our vines and enhancing the overall quality of our fruit. We’re also replanting new varietals this spring, including Zweigelt and Sémillon, which will introduce new and unique expressions into our wine portfolio.
8. What are you going to do to celebrate the completion of the Harvest?
Chris: Crack a cold beer and enjoy something different from wine. Much as I love it, it’s important to step away for the intensity of it all and refresh your brain and palette with something totally different. As well, I am looking forward to gathering with the local winemaking community to chat, collaborate, celebrate, and commiserate on another year done.
Jesse: Our winemaker is a new dad to a baby boy, so he is going to spend time with his family over the holidays. Also, as a tradition we have had for many years, we will celebrate with the whole team at a Windsor Spitfires hockey game in December.
Rebecca: At Lailey, we’re a small team, and at the end of harvest, we come together to celebrate everything we’ve achieved. It takes the dedication and hard work of every single person to make it all happen, and we’re proud of the role each team member plays in making the harvest a successful one.
In Summary
The 2024 grape harvest in Ontario brought a mix of challenges and rewards, as shared by winemakers Chris Thompson (Lighthall Vineyards), Jesse Horvath (Viewpointe Estate Winery), and Rebecca Ruggeri (Lailey Wines). Weather played a pivotal role this year, with rain impacting yields early in the season and dry conditions dominating the harvest period. Chris noted smaller volumes due to disease pressure but is excited about experimenting with fortified Chardonnay. Jesse observed exceptional quality in their reds, particularly Cabernet Franc, thanks to high Brix and balanced acidity. Meanwhile, Rebecca highlighted the notable success of her Stonebridge Vineyard’s Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, with a long, warm fall driving ripeness and complexity.
Innovation and tradition are shaping Ontario’s winemaking future. Chris revisited fortified wines and acacia-fermented Chardonnay, while Jesse introduced saignée-style rosés to explore their vibrant potential. Rebecca embraced wild fermentation for her first harvest at Lailey, allowing native yeasts to showcase the region’s terroir. All three winemakers share a commitment to thoughtful vineyard practices, from Rebecca’s minimal intervention approach to Jesse’s strategic pruning for quality.
Thank you to these winemakers for taking the time to answer my questions and inform my readers about their wines and winery.