Time to Try a Cold Climate White: Chankaska Creek Itasca!
TL:DR Search out Chankaska Creek’s 2023 Itasca, it’s really good!
Itasca – A Cold Climate Hybrid Grape
The Itasca grape is one of the most recent releases from the University of Minnesota’s Grapevine Cultivar Development Program. The goal of the wine grape cultivar program is to develop grapes that are simultaneously hardy to Minnesota winters (agricultural zone 4 and even zone 3), resistant to pests and disease, and taste good when made into wine. Most recently the goal with wine has been to produce grapes with properties in the range of typical popular Vitis vinifera grapes. Historically, cold climate grapes possess higher acidity, often requiring a sweet wine to balance the acidity.
Grape development takes years. New grape cultivars come from crossing multiple grape species over several generations, then years of testing before release. Itasca has been in development since 2002. Originally tagged as MN 1285, it was created from a cross pollination of Frontenac Gris and MN 1234, a Seyval Blanc offspring known for its resistance to powdery mildew. It also has Vitis riparia in its family tree. It was recognized as an elite seedling in 2009, named and introduced in 2016, and finally released for commercial use in 2017. The grape takes its name from Lake Itasca in Northern Minnesota, the source of the Mississippi River.
Itasca Wine
Itasca was new to the world in 2017. Vines could be planted and the first wines would be available 3-4 years later. With so little history, winemakers are still experimenting with how best to turn Itasca from grape into wine. Harvest timing, fermentation temperature, stainless or oak aging; all are decisions that are still being worked out. Typical aromas and flavors include pear, quince, kiwi, starfruit, gooseberry, and honeydew melon. Northern growers consider Itasca a low-acid grape, but don’t let that fool you. Itasca acidity is on par with typical wine grapes like Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling.
Chankaska Creek Ranch, Winery and Distillery
Chankaska Creek Ranch Winery is located near St. Peter Minnesota, a one hour drive southwest of Minneapolis. Chankaska Creek is a winery and distillery, but it is also an event center, tasting room and a place to spend a relaxing afternoon or evening. I’ll have a report posted soon about my recent visit.
Disclosure: The wine for this post was provided as a sample. No other compensation was involved, all opinions expressed are mine.
Chankaska Wines Itasca 2023 Minnesota AVA (sample, $34 at the winery) 13.9% abv
Eye: Medium gold
Nose: Medium aromas of ripe pear, red apple, a hint of fennel, crême brulée.
Mouth: Dry, medium plus acidity, medium plus body with rich texture, medium alcohol, medium plus flavor intensity, medium finish.
Observations: An excellent transition for Vitis vinifera drinkers coming to hybrid wines. Unique aromas and flavors, but the dry character, acidity and texture will be familiar. The wine paired nicely with our dinner of cilantro-lime salmon and rice. Because winemaking is still being developed for Itasca, I would suggest you look for the 2023, prior vintages may show a different approach.
Chankaska Wine Itasca at the Dinner Table
We enjoyed the Chankaska Wine Itasca at dinner over Cilantro-Lime Salmon and Rice from NY Times Cooking. The dish is an easy and fun weeknight meal. The rice is toasted to start, giving a nice flavor and texture under the other ingredients. The only trick is to not overcook the salmon, so watch carefully! The Chankaska Itasca was a nice partner with crisp acidity and a rich body, perfect to match the body of the salmon.
